This was an unbelievable day. I learned so much about the story of the Tibetan people- how they were forced to walk away from their homes into Nepal , Bhutan, or India because the Chinese wanted the uranium and minerals in the land and they were told they would be returning home – which was all a lie. The Nepal govt. gave the Tibetan people several pieces of land to live on around KMD and Pokhara, which is where we had a chance to visit several of their settlements . Our guide, Thupten Guyatso, runs his own business-
wwwtibetan-encounter. com He was named after the Dalai Lama. And he is a brilliant Tibetan, doing a great service for his people and helping to educate the world- one by one.
After a 20 minute bouncy drive over back roads of Pokhara we pulled up to a huge metal gate and a sign naming the settlement. We drove into a grassy lawn and proceeded on a walking tour with our informative guide. He explained how each family was given a house – one room and they are all the same size.- about 12 by 12 ft. There was a fire place in the center and around that they lived and slept. It was money from the US and Switzerland that provided money for all the buildings- their homes, all attached in long rows, medical and school buildings etc. And the settlements have been in place for 50 years. In their native country of Tibet the people were accustomed to spending the whole winter living in tents with a fire in the center and their clothes were animal skins . They ate mostly meat and they would
grind barley into a powder which they mixed with butter tea to create a hot cereal- high protein – and the Trekkers of today – they say- carry this powder with them.
Rug weaving
On the porch of the rug weaving shop were 3 women seated on cushions, spinning wool. Our guide said that there is so little pay for what they are doing that their families encouraged them to not bother with it and just stay home. But then they would be so lonely! They would prefer to be sitting together- doing something simple and repetitive with their hands-(yes- like a meditation- where their fingers dance over the soft fibers of wool and transform it into yarn) and they have each other to Talk to!! Aren’t they the fortunate ones.
Inside the weaving shop we learned the same thing about these young women who are doing the rug making. There is just spending money- pocket change to be made doing the weaving – but they have children at home and if their kids are sick they just stay home – they have flexibility which suits them. It takes about 4 months to learn how to weave a rug. They sit on a bench facing a loom with a paper nearby with the design they are creating. It looks to me like it takes a lot of concentration but it too can be a meditation. The rugs they are making are small- about 15 by 15 inches and they sell for $20 in the gift shop. They take 4 days to make.
Noodle shop
The Tibetans have out -of -work teens so they created a pasta making business in one room which some of the kids are running. There is a mixing machine that mixes flour, eggs, and water. And on the drying rack we admired the beautiful results- an eye catching abstract sculpture of semi translucent pasta suspended elegantly, waiting to dry, to be cut, and to be bagged. Because Nepal is given money by the Chinese government, Nepal is not allowed to give any rights of citizenship to the Tibetan settlers. Therefore they do not have passports and they cannot leave the country. They cannot own a car, property, or operate a business either, so the pasta business they created sells their product only to the settlement itself and a few other Tibetan groups.
Teen sewing project
Designed for out of work teens, the sewing room is a bag making factory.
We saw traditional woven fabrics being turned into small and large bags with a shoulder strap. Our guide pointed out how the inside layer is a piece of fabric from a used rice bag. And as the young man was at his sewing machine, cranking out parts of bags, he was watching something on his cell phone.
Tibetan medical consultation
Finding it is odd to be seeing a doctor on a sightseeing tour, I was nonetheless curious and willing to have this opportunity. Can you imagine in the USA, after visiting an American Indian reservation, they
say- and now for your apt with a witch doctor! On second thought I would probably welcome that! As I have a condition for which I have found no cure and is one of the main reasons for taking this trip. The lovely Tibetan doctor has spent the morning seeing her Tibetan patients who live in the settlement. We were able to peer into the medical clinic and it was a big open space with no curtains or privacy for the patients. I saw several people laying on their backs with their legs uncovered, with what looked like needles poking into them. Acupuncture? And all medical services are free. However, Tibetan medicine cannot deal with cuts, injuries, broken bones, things of that nature. Chronic conditions which they refer to as Wind conditions are created by a problem of the nervous system , and they are adept at solving those things. So, I was curious when she was holding my wrist and feeling my pulse, I was wondering what she was finding! I did explain to her as we first met, that I have a case of dry mouth. And I acquired it at my job, where I have worked for 8 years in a hospital with children who have brain rumors. I told her that I love being with the children but I think the stress of observing their conditions is hard on me . She closed her eyes and asked if I have cold hands and feet. I said yes. I told her I have very low blood pressure and she said that I have poor circulation in my legs and in general a weak constitution. She said she would prescribe a medication to take at bedtime to help me relax, and that it might cure my dry mouth. She said I must keep my lower back warm, as it tends to get achey- which it does- from arthritis- (inspite of or because of decades of yoga ) And she said ” do not go on a raw food diet, it’s not for you” and no salad at night-only warm foods.
So now I understand that according to Tibetan thought, which I believe also corresponds with Chinese medicine,I have a wind condition, which has nothing to do with farting but everything to do with emotions – which I know already . But the idea of wind is a bit of a pleasant picture! Next it was Allynn’s turn with the lady doctor. He gave her his wrist and we waited to see what she would say. First she mentioned that he has a problem with a shoulder (which is true) and then she said he has high cholesterol -also true- and she said he should drink hot water to thin his blood. And he needs more exercise. Yes- I agreed! Allynn then made some balloons for the doctor for which she seemed most grateful. She said that it was almost the most wonderful gift she had ever received!
Lunch time, finally!
We were escorted into one of the Tibetan’s homes where we were served the basic Tibetan meal which I have come to understand is the same as a Nepalese meal. It is what we had at the yoga ashram for breakfast and dinner and it makes a great lunch as well. And now I was happy to see the familiar mound of rice on a circular metal plate surrounded by chopped greens that taste like collard greens, something that looks like cooked brown twigs and a small scoop of reddish brown paste which I know now to be the spicy stuff. So our usual approach is to mix it all up on top of the rice. And served in a separate small bowl is the soup- made usually out of peas-this time lentils and it was delicious! I poured some of the soup on top of the rice mixture and scooped it up with a big spoon to eat it . The locals use their fingers! I am not going there! We sat on low wide benches that are covered with the same kind of carpets we saw being made that morning, but our guide told us the families make their own. I could feel how the benches easily transform into beds and I felt ready to test one out- when I was told it was time to go. Off we went on our next adventure but I insisted it was time to shop- as we passed a Tibetan lady with her jewelry all laid out in her own stand. She told me she had made everything herself and I figured her prices would be better than what I would find in KMD. So I took my time, enjoying a moment of retail therapy! By now I was also wanting my tea time, but our guide would have nothing of it! No rest for the weary.
Kindergarten was next on our agenda where Allynn did balloons for all the kids. Their classrooms open to a nice grassy lawn with some jungle gyms ( painted yellow red and green) and the teachers brought the kids out to meet the balloon man. Allynn made a balloon head band for each child and for the teachers as well. Lots of laughter and merriment. Our guide said that there are strict laws for the educational requirements for the teachers. And they are paid very well.
Our day is building to a climax as we head off to a Tibetan monastery across town in the little white car (with driver) and again we pull up to a gate- this time with colorful statues of deer on it. I recognized the tradional colors- burgundy painted on the fence with gold and yellow. It looked beautiful and exotic . It felt like a dream, like I was entering the forbidden city. I grabbed my I phone to be ready to capture the moment and as we parked and got out of the car, we were high up on a cliff, facing the valley below and in front of us was a tree with some jabbering monkeys. “This way” our guide called. We had an appointment with a monk and should not be late! I surveyed the area for souvenir stands but saw nothing so I dutifully charged on. We approached a huge courtyard with a center garden with a colorful fountain in the middle. Straight ahead I photographed a monastery temple building with large steps. On either side are huge imposing dorm buildings which house the monks.
We sat on the stairs, waiting for our meeting with our monk! It seemed funny to me, like something out of reality tv; we had 10 minutes to find out the private life of a genuine monk.
I felt a little embarrassed by the whole situation but I knew Allynn would take over with this and sure enough, a young, strapping football player of a kid showed up, wearing dark red monk pants, red sneakers and a bright orange t shirt. What a winning smile and a warmth he displayed. Of course Allynn makes everyone smile with his winning ways. We heard all about his education which is rigorous . He has all the basic high school classes to attend plus he has to memorize hundreds of prayers and he has to properly recite them in front of all his monk classmates. I asked him about learning meditation and he said that will come later, but they are learning mindfulness meditation. He seemed like a well rounded monk to me- content with the whole scene. I don’t recall what age he started there- his monk career.
Almost over! My goodness- this is a lot for me to write- on my I phone! Almost done
Chanting time in the Temple!
We took our shoes off and carefully entered into another world! I could hardly believe my eyes as we were ushered into the inner sanctum of a real live temple, full of the fog of incense and young boys wearing burgundy robes seated on long benches. We sat to the side on cushions with a good view of the action. Music, chanting, reciting prayers and two huge ancient long necked horns were propped up next to us on the floor. The musicians who bellowed into the mouth pieces were teenage boys, with puffy cheeks, looking more like troublemakers than Angels. I felt like I was seeing something out of a movie. The elaborate paintings of the life of the Buddha were on the ceiling in big circles and the decorative painting spilled down the Columns and onto the walls, giving the huge hall a heavenly glow. The young boys right in front of us looked to be about 8 to 10 years old. They were focused on prayer books in front of them. And we watched as one was playfully poking another by his side, but the stalwart young monk refused to react to his neighbor’s antics. I had seen a sign about no video allowed so I assumed still photos were allowed. And I snapped some, secretly. The monks go to that prayer ceremony twice a day! Am and Pm. Finally our day was over after one last meeting with a senior Tibetan gentleman where we were served butter tea(salty broth) and warm flat bread with jam and butter -yea ! Home to our hotel and dinner- it was an amazing day and I couldn’t wait to climb under the covers and close my eyes! That day cast its spell on us, as we learned so much about the Tibetan culture and the torture and suffering the people have been thru. I am embarrassed to admit my lack of knowledge of the whole history of these people. And at the end of our tour I asked our guide a question that just popped into my head and I felt silly but I asked if the Dalhi Lahma is following in the footsteps of the famous Buddha, Siddhartha. And he said yes.
