I finally made it to the gym today.  It took about 30-minutes of walking while listening to an audio book of Gravity’s Rainbow (thank you, Ozzie).  After about 4 times of listening to the first two chapters without  remembering anything about what’s happening or who the characters are, I finally decided this book is written like stream of consciousness … there are no plots, story, or characters so far…. it’s more like someone painting a picture with words and images.  I’m going to continue listening to the rest of the book with this concept in mind and see how far I get.

After arriving at the gym I figured I didn’t need to get on the tread mill (I just walked 30 minutes to get here).  They have one kettle bell, so I grabbed it and did as much as I could remember with it for about half an hour.  Then I saw the guy who gave me training lessons there last week and I signed up for three sessions a week with him for the rest of the month (after membership, it comes to about $10-12/ per session).  We put in an hour’s workshop, then he told me that when I use the men’s dressing room, I should always cover up with a towel whenever anyone is in the room…  juggling taking underwear on and off under a towel.  In the US no one cares in the dressing room but I guess they’re more “proper” here?

Then he and the other trainers tried to get me what’s the “trick” to blowing up the balloons (I shared balloons with them the morning of New Years Eve).  I demonstrated blowing balloons up from he top, the bottom, from the middle….  then in circles, in hooks… then 3 and 4 at a time.   They made wonderful audience.  After the workout I went across the street to the little mall (it’s big for this area).  I needed to get another pair of sneakers (they won’t let me use my outdoor sneakers in the gym, so I’ve been using the only other footwear I have – water shoes, that have no support).  They have a PayLess Shoe store here.  That was good news….  However size 12 was their biggest shoe and it’s just a touch too small for me.  I’m not going to find a pair I can wear in this town.

I walked the half hour back.  When i was near our apartment I passed the rickshaw drivers who know me and called me over for balloons (I can’t walk past them without stopping).  They pointed to one guy for me to “do him”.  The good point was that they didn’t all request individual balloons.  So I just “did him”

This was the first day so far that I didn’t walk in one section that a little boy who sells fruit walks every day.  I felt bad that I didn’t get to make him a balloon today.

Theres a beautiful full moon and the sky is so clear – it’s making these beautiful evening.

I was glad my alarm worked and it woke me up at 5:45 so I could get to the 6:15 class.  Allynn was on his way to his gym and I was glad he was walking me in the dark to the Shala. I had just read a notice posted on a tree outside the Shala stating recent harassment to women yoga students has become a problem and be sure to walk together in groups. As we got close to the Shala, Allynn remarked “odd there are no yogis around.” And I wondered if I’d gotten the timing wrong.  But once inside the gate I saw all the shoes. And I took mine off and walked up the cool red tile steps and in the door.  Inside, in the entry way was a yogi on his mat in child’s pose and the manager guy who never smiles pointed to a spot next to him where I could put my mat. And I realized the Shala was full of yoga students already and I was late. Three more people arrived and  we had our own space for yoga in the hall which was facing the Shala room and I thought it was nice to be there on the cool marble floor, partially out of view of the teacher.
Then the class began and it was hot and very quickly I was a puddle of sweat. The teacher was Saraswathi.
And we were doing all the jump backs- between each side of every pose- which I haven’t been doing on my own. So I was dying and there are a few poses I have stopped doing which I was faced with and had a hard time doing ( lotus shoulder stand with hands holding knees which I never got) . Then finally it was over. I rolled up my mat and went out, seeing the next crowd outside, eagerly waiting to get in for the next class. During the class I noticed a couple in my little alcove  not doing the poses; hanging out, basically, just watching. I thought they had the perfect spot because they were really hidden, completely out of view of the teacher, who is walking around the room, verbally correcting people. There were no assistants; I guess it was too crowded. And I was thinking how I felt lucky to be there- as space was really at a premium.
Back to my hotel my “bed coffee” arrived at my door soon after I did . A welcome sight but the size of the cups are like doll cups! Irritatingly tiny! And as I drink it I am picturing the vente size cups at Starbucks – what are these people here thinking?
And I don’t have the nerve to ask for another- it is free – maybe I will – tomorrow. After a great nap where I felt like I’d just run a marathon – I could feel my heart still beating in my chest, we walked down the hill into the lovely sunny Sunday and had Indian breakfast with masala tea. It consists of a crispy crepe with some cooked chunks of potatoes inside and 2 kinds of dipping sauce.

And you get to use your fingers, tear it apart , and play with your food. No utensils are given.

After an hour there our fruit boy showed up.  Allynn made some balloons for him and then we walked a bit, marveling at the creative architecture in the buildings we see everywhere.

There seems to be no lack of unusual ideas about how to design buildings here. Looks like there are no restrictions on colors, size – the buildings sometimes are right next to each other  and most are surrounded by an enclosure – fencing or a wall and a gate at the driveway.

It’s a lot like Mexico as far as the variety of colors go. And a lot of it reminds me of a Frank Loyd  Wright fantasy or nightmare.  The wrought iron decor is mind boggling  and people take great pride in dolling up their homes.
Onto the next coffee shop, Allynn ran into s friend from the Green Hotel, I wrote in my notebook and waited for my doll sized coffee.  Which brings up another challenge here is the waiting game. When you place your order for coffee it might be 20 minutes before it arrives. And that is pretty much standard here. That is just how it is. There is nothing to be done about it.
We bought a bundle of fruit and carried it back to our hotel . Time for another nap. I have my transformational healing session in 2 hours. Better rest up for it.

– bye – see you later! Annie

I had been going to the gym everyday until we moved from the hotel to this apartment on Jan 1st.  The gym was closed on Jan 1 so I didn’t go.

On Jan 2nd I thought I’d trek the 30-minute walk to the gym using side roads and cut my time.  I walked for about 3 hrs totally lost.  I couldn’t take a rickshaw because I didn’t have any small change… and they wouldn’t change a “large” bill (worth about $8) for a 50 cent ride.  Also, I didn’t know the addresses of the our apartment, of the gym, or of the Yoga Shala.  The gym is near a Subway Sandwich shop (like in the States) and a little mall (big for this area)….  but people on the street which direction to go to get to these locations, I drew blanks from everyone.  Finally some guy on a motorcycle stopped when he saw me and communicated that he saw me doing balloons the day before somewhere.  I asked if he could point me in the direction of my destinations….  no.  I asked if he could point me in the direction of where he saw me doing balloons…. still no.  I made him a balloon hat and continued being lost.  I never got to work out at the gym that day.

Jan 3  I woke up with a stomach bug, so skipped the gym again.

Jan 4th (today) I was determined to get to the gym.  Annie felt uncomfortable walking to her yoga class alone in the dark…  so I walked  her to the shalt and continued walking to the gym in the dark…  the way I was sure of.  I made it there by 6:30am (the half hour I figured it would take me).  What I didn’t know was the gym doesn’t open that early (I thought they told me 6am-11pm).   There were no places open for coffee or breakfast in the area.  I thought I might go into the mall that was across the street… but a security guard shooed me away.  I asked when they opened…  8?  9?….  He said, 10am.   I wasn’t in the mood to hang around so walked back to the hotel.

Tomorrow Annie’s yoga class begins about 8 or 8:30am, so I’ll leave for my gym later and should get my first workout of the year.

 

       I mentioned that the local “mall” had some decorations for Christmas – This was it ….  a 97 pound version of a slimmed down Santa.  Locals would come take selfies with him.

Another fun thing….  there are stray days every where here (as well as cows and goats, but they’re owned by someone I’m sure.  All of these animals stroll around the streets, eating garbage.  I kept looking at the gangs of stray dogs when I noticed most of the car License plates here begin with KA-09.  It brings back memories of Dr Who (Tom Baker, my favorite one from the mid-1970’s) and his pet robot dog.. K-9.

I tried sharing this “insight” with some folks here when I realize it’s not just the language that makes me feel like an alien here (but I’m the happy balloon guy alien who wears a silly hat… so I receive smiles from most people.

 

 

The bed coffee arrived on time! 7:30 and how sublime! No, it’s not good offee. I hate to tell you- it’s instant! But sugar makes it delicious.
I am consuming too much sugar here. When I order tea at my favorite cafe, it comes with sugar in it.  And if I order a cafe latte I add sugar or it is tasteless.  I forgot to photograph my breakfast this morning to show you an Indian breakfast but I got a picture of last night’s dinner from Tina’s Cafe.

We walked there- a mile each way and we may return tonight. I’m tired. I guess the massage wore me out!  When we arrived at the breakfast cafe, our friend Vanya was there. She’s the one from Montreal- I’ve got a picture of her with balloons.

And she was doing a watercolor painting – a tiny one as we sat there. I couldn’t believe it because I had my sketch book with me too and I took it out of my bag and got busy. I can’t believe how she and I have so much in common. Last night when we were walking home from Tina’s Cafe, I heard someone calling my name and I thought- nobody knows me here- but it was her- Vanya- and she was on the street in front of the place where she is staying- which happened to be a place we had originally signed up for and changed our minds. We went in and shared our bag of tangerines- which are incredible here and then another roommate appeared. She is a yogi from Poland named Agatha and she asked if we are Vanya’s’ parents!
This age thing is getting to me. I am glad to say I am not the oldest yogi here. I have seen a few with pure white hair, which always makes me feel relieved. But I do feel self conscious around all the 20 something’s. Just feel over the hill- like my days are numbered.  At least I am living a dream !
It was a little sad saying good bye to my massage girl friends today after my last massage with them. 7 massages feels like enough . All the oil in my hair is a little tiresome to wash out  and of course I have to take a nap afterwords- but what else do I have to do here?  No yoga today ( never on Saturday) but we have it at the main Shala tomorrow at 6:15 am. The led class, which I am So looking forward to. Hope I can get my bed coffee before I run out the door, I am a 10 minute walk to the Shala.  And late afternoon I have a date for a healing transformation . I hope it works!($50).
I’m trying to get Allynn to do a past life regression ($50) with the same guy. So we are leading the life of Riley. And enjoying it. The weather is perfectly wonderful- 70’s all day and lots of sun shine. Allynn is making friends all over the place!

It is fun to be a part of his entourage! And I get to take pictures! Cheerio and  let’s talk tomorrow!

Love, Annie

 

 

 

It’s only my second day here and I already feel like I’ve been here a while.  I have Very good news. They have something very Special here. It’s called Bed Tea or Bed Coffee! When you are in a hotel, like setting the alarm with the front desk, you can say I would like bed tea at 7:00 am. And they bring it to you- for Free! I don’t understand all aspects of it – like- do they use the hotel key to enter your room so you don’t have to get out of bed to open the door? When the whole point is that they are bringing you tea or coffee in bed? So it is new to me and I will let you know the intricacies of this concept- I love it!
My second day at the Yoga Shala-

Quite the crowd! Looks like it is a staggered schedule. I think it may begin at 6 or 7am. So basically, you show up at the time you’ve been given ( tho no one is checking) and you do your practice. There is a set series of poses, which you are supposed to know by heart before you come and you move thru the sequence, sun salutations  and all the rest in the Primary Series. I had heard, years ago that you should have been doing Ashtanga daily for 8 years before you were ready for the class here in Mysore.  But there was a girl in the class today who didn’t know from nothing! First time she’d ever done it. I guess there are exceptions to every rule. As I was finishing up my practice, I did headstand before shoulder stand- standard the world over- but not in Ashtanga. So it’s all in the details.
I had breakfast with a lovely yogi named Vanya, from Montreal; a costume designer who has many friends who work for Cirque! Small world. Then onto chanting class in the main Shala with about 300 yogis. And massage time (no 6) at noon.
Getting all oiled up is getting old and frankly boring. Thank goodness I have only one massage left- tomorrow, and then I’m moving down the street to another Ayurveda place where the guy does transformational healing( I have an appointment on Sunday)- and he does past life regression- and he does workshops on how to do that to others. His name is Kumar, and I went to one of his free meditation classes in a bamboo hut on top of his roof. He said something that cracked me and Allynn up – talking about himself- he said us Indian folk here in India do not do yoga- we sell yoga
Tomorrow is Saturday, and there is no Astanga class on Saturday. And Monday is a full moon so there is no class then either. So maybe I’ll go with Allynn in the morning to his gym and see if I can have a guest pass. Maybe I’ll do my Ashtanga there. I’ve always done it on Saturdays! And on full moons too. Maybe I’ve been working too hard- entirely possible. Tomorrow I’ll take a picture of the new Indian breakfast I’ve been eating- pretty interesting. Neither one of us are sick! It’s great and we’re going out for Indian food tonight- Whoopee!!!  
About the cow picture, after mandatory chanting class every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 11:30 am, these 2 cows show up all decked out in Sunday finery ! And their owners ask for money if you’d like to take their picture! How innovative! They’ve figured out the perfect time – critical mass – when the most yogis are exiting the building – I fell for it and they were very difficult to photograph! So I’ll try again next time.

Love to you all! Have a lovely weekend. Namaste , Annie

We woke early enough and I planned on heading off to the gym (a 30-minute walk) while Annie took off for her yoga class. Rather than going down to the main drag, taking a right turn and walking about 5-10 minutes … then taking another right turn and walking 15-20 minutes…. I thought I’d go diagonally and experience some streets I didn’t know yet. It wasn’t long before I was totally lost.
I kept passing lots of packs of wild dogs (they only get aggressive around dogs who aren’t part of their packs so I was okay) and cows. Some of these blocks are for upscaled middle class… some are for workers. The further I walked from the yoga center, the more downscaled the homes. If the roads were parallel and perpendicular I’d have been fine, but they seem to wind around. I needed to go south and west…. but if I went too far south before going west…. or too far west before going south I’d miss my mark. I wish I had a map of the area. I missed it.
Every once in a while I’d pass a rickshaw driver…. however the fare would be about 30 rubees (50 cents) and the only bills I had on me were 500’s…. The rickshaw drivers seem to get upset when I offer them a 100 bill…. a 500 wouldn’t work. I kept walking.
Some guy on a motor cycle stopped and smiled, saying he saw me doing balloons yesterday. I made him a balloon and asked if he could point me in the direction of the Gold’s Gym…. no… I thought of other shops around the gym – how about the Subway Sandwich shop (just like in the States)… still the answer was
“no”… the “BM” Shopping Mall…. no …. the P. Jois Yoga Shala …. no.
Stupid me… I didn’t even remember the name of the subdivision suburb of Mysore the Yoga was in. I kept walking. Finally I saw a little shop. If I’d buy something for less than 200-250 rupees they might not give me change for a 500… so I bought some tooth paste and other stuff … mostly to get some smaller change. Then I asked a rickshaw driver to take me to the Subway Sandwich shop. 30 rubees and 3 minutes later we were there. I still don’t have a clue where I was … but I was so close.
It had been over 2 hours of walking… I decided I didn’t need to go to the gym so turned around to go back. First I asked a rickshaw driver how much the trip back to the Yoga Shala would be. He said 50! I said 30! He repeated 50! (the difference is so little I probably should have just hopped in…. but my ego got in the way and I laughed and began walking. About a half hour later I made it back to the yoga area… I just had to hear the local rickshaw drivers there to know I was “home”… they were all asking me for balloon hats.
The little boy (12 years old) who pushes a wheeled fruit stand around saw me and asked for another balloon hat. Since I wouldn’t accept his 10 rupee bill yesterday (I just made him the balloon), he gave me a small pine apple today. I built a little house on his cart this time.
I met Annie later when she was almost done with her Ayurveda massage treatment and we walked back to the apartment… passing the boy with the cart again. His balloons had broken (it’s summery warm here) so I made him a balloon outfit and we took off.
Tomorrow I’ll go to the gym the way I know…I won’t take any short cuts.

I packed my suitcase, grabbed a cup of coffee at the Green Hotel and caught a rickshaw to the Yoga studio. But this time, Allynn stayed behind to finalize packing and checking out of the Green hotel. So I was on my own- my first solo rickshaw ride.  I handed the driver a piece of paper with the address and we were off. He was taking the back roads which I was thinking was a good thing, until I realized we were lost and I wasn’t sure how to tell him to go. I just hoped I’d recognize something soon. And I did. I saw the giant water tower by our new hotel. So then I directed him down the hill and I got out and found the building with my yoga class. It is the home of Saraswathi, the daughter of Shri Pattabhi Jois and she is the teacher.  I saw two women sitting outside, sippin on a straw in a coconut. I asked one of them, Western looking, what the deal was. She said just go up the stairs, take your shoes off and go on in. There’s a changing room at the back, and find a spot to put your mat down. I thought ok- let’s do it! I opened the door and I saw a sea of people, in fact I was practically stepping on someone’s mat. I tip toed across, between the mats and found the dressing room. I took off my clothes: I was already wearing my yoga outfit underneath,and I tidied up my backpack in a corner of the dressing room (nervous about leaving my stuff out of sight) – took a tinkle and entered the yoga room. There was one spot in the whole room that was suddenly vacant, so I opened my mat there and began my practice. I couldn’t help notice to my left, 2 people over was a child doing Ashtanga! About 10, a handsome boy who looked like he belonged to me; he was incredible- tiny, wiry, focused and totally into it, all on his own! I didn’t see his parents- so- I did feel the ease of doing the practice with all this energy.
In the room. It was exhilarating to be with My Tribe of Ashtangis!  There were 3 or 4 assistants walking around the room to help the yoga students and Saraswathi came over and we spoke briefly: she asked who my teachers have been. I said Jivamukti. And then I did my thing and she came over at the end of my practice with some nuances I’ve missed. And she said I need to slow my practice down . There were several things I do that are not in her book- so I hope to get it clarified at the led class on Sunday . Drenched with sweat I was one of the last to leave. I took off my yoga outfit, tucked it into a plastic bag, got dressed, and made my way out- snapping one photo on the way.

A gal I’d met the night before at the meditation class was there, at the bottom of the stairs, drinking coconut water  and I scrambled, looking for my small change to buy one when she offered to buy one for me.   Then I was invited to go along with her and
and her friend Jess, who coincidentally is a friend of my niece, Patty Hickman, who runs a great restaurant in Traverse City, Michigan and my niece is an Ashtangi too!
The divey place I’d seen by the road was good, they said, and I was happly following their lead with  my yoga mat over my shoulder and a hearty appetite. I ordered what they did- Rice patties and dipping sauce- basically and delicious tea. ($1.00)
Then I hit the road and walked up the suburban streets with the attractive homes along the way, to find Allynn at our new hotel, within walking distance of the Yoga Institute.
We were moving there today. And as I walked I couldn’t help but notice the beautiful chalk drawings that appear magically, on people’s driveways. We were told they are called  ‘Sitting  with God’.  And it seems that they are drawn  freshly everyday.

I was So Happy to see Allynn checking into our hotel as I arrived. And we quickly unpacked and walked back down the hill to my massage treatment no 5! This one was the same but different.  The same 2 little girls, but today I got the water treatment which was Amazing. I was laying on my belly, face down, and I felt a river of hot water running down one side of my body. From my neck ,down my back, over my arm and down my leg it flowed. Hot water. I realized what the lip around the table is for. It kept flowing over and over, down and down until she switched to the other arm and leg. Then she had me turn over onto my back and the hot water flowed down the front of me. This went on for a wonderfully long time. I heard lots of water pouring sounds and I was imagining big kettles of water being heated over a fire- I had now idea how this was all happening, until it was over, I sat up and I saw a gas stove with blue flames. The girl wanted me to sit , leaning forward, over straight legs out in front of me and pour water down my back. Well- that just happens to be my favorite yoga pose- Pachimotanasana. So I was delighted to comply! And it was absolutely Amazing, as she poured that wonderful hot water over my happy, melting body.

So much for my first day doing yoga in Mysore. As I looked around the room at the other yoga students, I was glad to see all shapes and sizes, all sweating and working hard. It felt really good to be there!  I felt right at home. I am looking forward to the led class, where the poses are called out
( according to their exacting specifications)  because today I was being called out by the teacher for not lifting my head up in a certain pose- fine tuning- I told her I have been doing a home practice- She is Extremely picky!

 

Well- Namaste! And Happy New Years Day

Annie

We signed Annie up for the Yoga Shala of her dreams today.

As we walked around the area the rickshaw drivers who are always aggressive to get their next passenger seem even more aggressive with me to make them balloons instead of to get me to hire them for a ride. I need to convert their desire for balloons into free rides (although these rides only cost us a buck or so each time).
We didn’t get a call back from the hotel manager, so didn’t need to return to do balloons at their party tonight and attended a very special meditation event in the early evening.
When we saw the manager later, he let me know how much he loved what I did with the balloons and kids, but said there would be too few kids at the event to make it worthwhile.
Before we went to sleep (we skipped the party), I took a stroll around the party and did balloons for the few kids (and their families) who were there.

Happy New Year!

At breakfast at the hotel  I chatted with a fellow who had a cute puppy on a leash. Turns out his fiancé has adopted the puppy and they’ll fly it home with them to California. She has been volunteering at an animal shelter here in Mysore so I brought up my issue I am dealing with my father’s animal hospital and I pointed out the phrase- “putting the animals to Sleep”- how that in itself speaks of not facing the reality of what people (my father) were doing. And I was living in a house connected to the kennel where these animals spent their last days and Died!  And I was told – just don’t go in there. You are too sensitive. (something was wrong with me!)  Anyway, then I mentioned to the the fellow with the dog that I am doing Ayurveda and he said he went thru that training course. He told me the special name for the double massage and how it is synchronized! He said the oil is a combination of different scents and it is cooked and the idea of the hot oil and the continual massage is that it breaks down the emotional scars over time! Wow- I was so glad to hear all that!
We went for my second massage ‘treatment ‘ and this time the tiny girl used something hot- I thought- hot stones- but no- different- after the same massage as the first she moved the hot thing all over my body . About the size of a bar of soap and I thought- hard rubber? and she pressed it along my arms and legs and back . This time I didn’t go into the steam box like I did the first time but I felt much more comfortable about the whole arrangement and I asked for a cushion or towel to be placed under my tail bone – which they did- and I had no discomfort there . As I left the treatment room I was handed another glass of warm brown water which I drank and then I looked out the door into the sunny day to find Allynn. The first time Allynn made some balloons for the tiny massage girls  and this time too. Later he told me that he had been making balloons for the Dr. guy while I was in treatment and Allynn had been told that those girls slept that night with their balloons!  And I looked at my watch and I realized I’d been in the ‘treatment’ room for 2 and a half hours! Back to the hotel by rickshaw and I just had to give my husband a little taste of what that oil  was all about.

Right around the Yoga Shala is an Ayurveda Center that I decided to explore. I read in their brochure how illness can be created by blocked emotions and I thought maybe it could help cure my dry mouth condition. So I entered their doorway and found peaceful music and a beautiful altar inside. I was introduced to Dr. Subeesh and I described my dry mouth condition to him.  I also have a lot of congestion  and he seemed to be a pleasant person and  he presented a treatment plan .I described  my job at the hospital where I work with children who have brain tumors and I also told him about my childhood- where my father had a kennel room in his animal hospital reserved for dogs and cats that had no homes and after they were there for longer than 2 weeks, and not adopted, he had to put them to sleep- so to speak- kill them- and it was hard for me to understand and accept! I believe that when I started at the hospital job it was a trigger from those times . One of my first thoughts when I started at the hospital was a flash back to my dad’s animal hospital- when he put the dogs to sleep- and at that moment  my dry mouth began.
So here I am at an Ayurveda Center, hoping for a cure. Dr. Subeesh recommended  2 weeks of daily 2 hour  sessions ,And he gave me a list of  medications to purchase and he drove me  to the shop where I could buy them.  I bought several bottles and jars ( $16.00) and brought them back to the hotel where we are staying and  I tried a few of them so far.  One is a tiny brown pill and when I swallowed it, it had the distinct taste of incense. The liquids were not bad- one tasted good in fact. But there is one that is a black tar like substance that definitely way over the top disgusting.
Today was my first treatment and I had no idea what to expect. Allynn and I went by motorized rickshaw-( $1.00) it is a 3 wheel taxi  and Allynn sat out side  the clinic while I entered.( He was listening to a book on tape)  Wow- I had the most incredible ‘treatment’ ! First, I spoke  with Dr. Subeesh in his office and then he rang the little bell on his desk and 2 tiny little Indian ladies appeared and he began giving them elaborate instructions of how to focus the massage on my chest, neck, throat and back; he was gesturing with his hands and speaking in Hindi. And  then I followed  the tiny girls  thru a curtain to another land!
I was in a dark room with a big wooden massage table in front of me. There was a window with a reddish brown curtain and I could see light shining thru. A large cabinet door opened where  I put my backpack and I Proceeded to undress. The 2 Women were standing right next to me.

I couldn’t help notice how small they were. I asked if I I should remove my underware and one of them said yes. I must have been giggling because they both started chuckling and said I was so cute!   Well, they were cute in an adorable way. They were the size of children and suddenly one of them was giving me a hug and her head was on my chest and I felt like I was in the company of fairies and I’d been    kidnapped into their world  and I was going  to stay!  I was standing naked between them and one tied a cord around my hips and I was feeling  a bit nervous.  It was as if I’d been abducted by aliens and some odd ritual was about to take place! Suddenly I was transported back on our trip to Kathmandu where the little girl goddess lives as I looked again at the red curtain. I noticed a long piece of fabric in the girl’s hands- about 4 inches wide that was to become my loin cloth!  She tucked one end of the fabric under the cord in front, at my waist  then drew the rest of the fabric between my legs and secured it behind me- how fashionable and  sexy I thought!  Then I was caught in their spell and instructed to sit on a small stool between the two of them. The one in front of me maneuvered  herself so she was standing between my knees and she began running her hands thru my hair. Wild, I thought- then oil ran down my neck and back  and  she oiled up my hair too- working her strong fingers into my scalp and I am wondering how I got here. How did this happen! And am I in a movie? Then I lay down on the big wooden table facing up and the journey was about to begin!

I was wondering where the cushion was  that goes on  the massage table to make it comfortable, but I am in a different world now and it was not for me to ask- I could  feel the smooth wood beneath me and the wooden lip that runs around the edge . It felt massive and ancient and pretty soon I felt droplets of hot oil being sprinkled up and down my arms and chest and  powerful hands were caressing my upper body and it felt heavenly and I am feeling glad that this  is the 2 hour treatment I have signed up for – every day for the next 2 weeks!
Then I felt  a tapping on my shoulder and I opened my eyes and in the dimly lit room I could make out a smiling fairy face asking me if the pressure is ok- and I realize she is talking about the  pressure of her hands as she strokes my body. She is doing a basic Swedish massage and I said it was fine but in fact it was a bit too hard for me. I could feel my tailbone rubbing uncomfortably into the wooden table, so I squeezed my butt to ease the ache there. Suddenly I got the magic of two people massaging  me Together! They were each working one of my legs and their movements were the same- they were working in tandem and I couldn’t help but wonder how they choreographed all this.  They were perfectly in sinc!  I was completely mesmerized and then they had me turn over onto my tummy and I felt more hot oil drizzle down my legs and butt and later on my back and arms. It was completely erotic and I could feel by now the wooden table was a wash in oil and I was slipping and sliding .I have never had 2 massage therapists working on me at the same time and it was an extraordinary luxury. I was trying to figure out what this was costing me and I thought- wow-a 2 hour massage with 2 therapists for $30.00. Unbelievable. As a certified massage therapist myself, I know the health benefits of massage but I  am too cheap to indulge in it , more than once a year!
I heard a mysterious sound in the room. Was it the crackling of wood burning in the fire place? Was it water dripping?  There were s lot of things about that room that were a mystery to me and I wanted to keep it that way-
Soon I was in for another treat- The massage was over and I was getting myself into the steam box! I was still completely covered in a thick sheen of oil and I was very tentative about standing up- I could see my feet going out from under me. But the 2 little girls were by my sides, encouraging me to step forward into the box! It was something I have seen in a movie- maybe on Lucy- where your body is in a wooden box and only your head is sticking out. And the box is full of steam. And I was thinking – this is the perfect thing for congestion! But how am I going to maneuver myself into it? I was sure the bottoms of my feet were oily and I knew the floor was slippery but the girls were encouraging me to walk and I stepped over the edge in into the box and I had to then turn myself around and sit my oily butt down on a stool- the top of which turns! I thought this is strange and then when I was settled down on the stool one of the tiny girls closed the front panel of the box that opens like a big door but this one had a big half circle cut out at the top- where my head goes and I felt like I was ready for the shackles and the guillotine! Then a towel was placed over my head  but I could see out and I felt the hot steam moving up from the bottom of the box behind my feet and I figured that was  where the odd noises I had heard earlier were  coming from.  I tried to breathe the steam into my nose that was creeping up thru the neck hole. I thought- well I am really sweating now- and I was feeling really slippery sitting on that stool – that turns- and I wondered what I could hold onto in the box to brace myself. It was oddly precarious and I was glad when the time was up and I was freed from the hot box, dripping with oily sweat and feeling slightly light headed. I sat on the low stool again and one of the tiny girls began the process of de- oiling me, from head to toe. She used a towel and ran it up and down my legs  and arms and butt and head  and hands and then she handed me a paper napkin and I wiped my eyes and face and fingers with it. Then I slowly  put my clothes over my sticky body and bid farewell to my new tiny lady friends. I was sitting in the entry way and was handed a glass of warm brown water which I drank, confirmed my appointment for the next day and headed out into the sunlight to find my husband and my shoes. What an unearthly experience I had just had and I tried to put it into words for my husband  as I negotiated the gritty streets of India and back to the hotel by rickshaw and to the shower!

I’ve been doing balloons for kids here at the hotel periodically as well as for some of the workers here (what a surprise). The manager asked me to do balloons at a little festival they were having so I gave him a “taste” of what I do. Now he’s asked me to do balloons at their New Years Eve party.
My dilemma :
1) I want to do it – paid or not
2) I’d like to get paid, have the hotel room comp’ed, or at least discounted
3) I only have a limited number of balloons with me and if I go nuts doing balloons for him tomorrow night I’ll run out much sooner than I planned… and I can’t replenish my supply until I get back to my mother-load stashed in Delhi early in February -(If you’ve never seen a balloon guy on a latex withdrawal episode…. it’s not a pretty site)

So I’m looking at my options:
1) just do it and if the manager says “thank you” by comp’ing our room, discounting it, or giving us anything…. just accept it
2) meet with the manager today and state the conditions I’d be willing to trade my services for (the fear… if he says “no”, I won’t be doing any balloons)
3) drop a note off with the manager asking how he intends on paying me.
4) ________________(fill in the blank

Thanks for any input…

We’ve been here in Mysore for about a week now. Staying in this hotel that feels like a little oasis. Every day I’ve been walking to the local gym (they actually have a Golds’ Gym here). I work out with a trainer there. He asked “what are your goals here?” I answered, “I don’t want my wife laughing at me”. I kept a straight face, he looked puzzled.
We take a motorized 3-wheeled rickshaw to the area Annie will be taking yoga and she goes for a 2+ hr hot oil massage (given by two young girls)… and come back for an early diner – there’s also an American Subway diner here… tuna sandwiches on American bread. We feel so at home.

At our hotel I get to play with some locals… the management asked if I’d like to do balloons at their New Years Eve party – no mention getting paid or having the room discounted or comp’ed… just that they’ll give me “permission”. How can
I say “No”

I thought I could escape that yucky burn out feeling that Christmas brings on but I was wrong. We had our own brand of India burn out in stead.  Allynn had a crampy stomach that went on for 3 days (and he lost some weight- so far 10 lbs! ) And I am again coping with very annoying congestion  and coughing- not as bad as I had in Kathmandu but still it wears me down. So over Christmas we napped a lot in our fantastic hotel and felt very frumpy and lethargic. We are at The Green Hotel until New Years Day and I adore this place!  So at least we are enjoying our surroundings.  Even tho we eat every meal at this hotel it is always possible that some spice in something you ate does not agree with you and you carry on with a slight  nauseous   feeling or you take to the bed and rest. I’ve had it for eating something spicy for breakfast ! So we are getting more cautious about what we eat. And we have even made friends with a Subway sandwich shop! We have been stopping there between 4 :00 and 5:00 in the afternoon and we share a foot- long sandwich which becomes our lunch and dinner.
I have been wondering how the yoga program will feel, once it begins on jan 1. I’ll be doing yoga from 8:30-10:30 am I believe, 6 days a week and I am not sure what else I will be doing.
We are staying in a new fangled hotel 4 blocks from the Yoga Shala. It is just a year old and up a hill overlooking Mysore. It is super clean and spiffy ; it has a community kitchen and an out door terrace and basic hotel rooms.  It is called Good Touch – not sure what that refers to! It will cost $400.00 for the month.We looked at a few houses that even have gardens- for $800.00 a month, but we are keeping to a simpler yoga  life style.  One day we took a walk from the new place- Good Touch- to see what cafes we might find for meals and coffee and I was depressed that we found Nothing! which left me to consider my addiction to coffee before yoga and after yoga . Allynn is suggesting we buy a coffee maker for the hotel kitchen. But he doesn’t really understand that I like the – going out for coffee experience! These subtleties are difficult for me to explain and I ponder these minute details that are the essence of my existence on planet Earth.
I am also wondering how it will feel to do yoga at the Shala!   I have been doing Ashtanga for so long that by now I am getting sick of it. And I wonder why I didn’t come here 5 years ago. Do people my age still do it? I have no idea! Maybe I will be the oldest person there! Ever! I am 66 and when am I going to Stop doing this? I have no idea- but every day when I do my yoga practice, I think- I am sick of doing this- then I do it.   I have been doing some drawing  to cheer me up.

 

You might have noticed I haven’t been blogging for a few days. Just hasn’t been much to write home about!  Hope You are all well and have survived the season  unscathed.

Namaste Annie

We’re set up for Annie to take the month of Yoga at the original Ashtanga (power) Yoga – the P. Jois center … we have our apartment set (a 5-minute walk to the center)…. I just signed up for a month’s membership at the local Gold’s Gym (that was a surprise to see one here) thaw ill be about a 15 minute walk each morning and I took my first session with a trainer this morning.
During the Summer and Fall, when we were planning our trip I explained to friends at the gym back home where we’re members that I haven’t taken off any weight since I’ve been going to the gym for years…. even the kettle bell class hasn’t had an effect on my weight…. so I told them the reason we decided to take 5 months in India was to reduce weight for me…. planning on getting a stomach virus or maybe an amoeba or something that would take the weight off. (With my straight face it’s fun to watch their reactions).
At the gym today I finally found at a scale and sure enough I’m down 10 pounds (I had to convert it from the metric).
Let’s see what the next month does.

Waking up to the sounds of a new place reminded me of the feelings I had the first morning in Delhi- the same feelings of foreboding came over me. Why this dread? Anxiety? Fear? Ok, I was very nervous about actually stepping into the door of the PJ Ashtanga Shala. I have dreamed about this for so long and now the moment is finally here and do I still want this dream? There are wonderful places I can go here in India; Do I even want to do this if they say I can? How am I going to feel staying in Mysore for a whole month?
I had the hotel breakfast which was great and I was too exhausted by the whole ordeal of getting here the day before that I could not bring myself to do my whole yoga practice. I did a few sun salutes and took a nap.I thought I would go check out the coffee shop in the hotel. Maybe I could revive myself with a latte. Allynn battled with the Internet and I decided to try the walnut cake. Not bad. We were both feeling cranky and rotten. Then we consulted with the guy at the travel desk about the yoga scene and he said we should get a cab for a half day (5hrs) for $20 and we could go to a few places. Moving forward! Making progress! I collected my notes- I wanted to check out plan B first- Yoga Mandala. This took a long search- driving around but I enjoyed the scene- our first day in Mysore! It is much more pleasant than Delhi- less hectic and calmer and more easygoing. There are large beautiful trees everywhere and at times it reminds me of a Florida town without the hanging moss.
Finding plan B was a big disappointment. To me, the place was a dump. Yoga Mandala was crossed off my list and we were on our way to the Ashtanga Shala with renewed enthusiasm. Several twists and turns and we were there. Nervously I pried myself out of the car and into the door. A woman appeared and I mumbled part of the speech I had prepared and she pointed across the room and said go in the door over there. All of the sudden I realized I was inside the sacred Shala.

There was the giant photo of Pattabhi Jois on the wall with a garland of flowers hanging over him like a necklace. I had been told I could not take photos inside this room and I wanted to in the worst way! There were a few people working on their head stands in one corner of the room. Allynn and I strolled towards the door we were assigned to and I collected my breath. I peered in and I could hear voices so I thought I’d wait my turn. My moment arrived and I walked in and stood facing a handsome Indian lady named Uha . I rattled off my speech, about applying and handed her my card with photos of me in yoga poses then I paused and Allynn chimed in, asking if they had any openings- and she said do you want to come in Jan and I said yes and she said ok. She said come back on Dec 31 at 4:00 and sign up then. We said ok and left. I was reeling from all of it; feeling dizzy and confused. Her office was a wash in chaos and piles of papers and I was just taken back that there was so little order to the place. It felt like I was finally meeting the wizard of Oz and there was no one there! The was no ledger book- no record or recall about my application on the face of this lovely woman. And then it leaves me feeling very foolish to have pinned my hopes on something so groundless- maybe it is because of the death of Pattabhi Jois this past year that the place is in disarray. Allynn asked if they have suggestions for housing and the gal said no. We returned to our car and driver- his name is Ganga, and we asked to be driven to the marketplace. And here I had a very exciting time- the scene was splendidly colorful and wild in every way-I felt like now I was truly falling down Alice’s rabbit hole and I might never get out!

It was a vegetable marketplace with a kaleidoscopic amount of color, shape and texture the likes of which I have never ever seen before. Plus it was quite the opposite of the dusty drab feeling of the Yoga Shala. The market place was frighteningly alive and my only major fear was getting lost and forgetting where we came in. But Allynn was glued to my side and I loved taking pictures and I thought- if I go to the Yoga Shala for a month , I could come here every day! I had found my world ! But-Could I figure the whole yoga thing out? Where to stay? Where to eat? How to get around? Well- Time will tell- we will look into this tomorrow- if we can find an Indian Home Stay within walking distance of the Shala maybe it will work. We returned to our beautiful Green Hotel for dinner on the green- and saw the Christmas lights were on- outlining the building and we had a fish and coconut milk rice dinner and celebrated our endeavors here. We made it to Mysore! Got my foot in the door and got my wish for Christmas! We miss you all more than you will ever know. Have a wonderful holiday. Enjoy your family and friends!
Love and Namaste,
Annie and Allynn

As I did my yoga in the hotel room today (and 50 push-ups) I felt a dread come over me. For tomorrow is the fateful day (unless I insist we need a day to acclimate) that we find our way to the Ashtanga Institute and negotiate our way in the door. I have to prepare my mind for exactly the right approach and also I want to get a lay of the land. I’ve heard that the town of Mysore is no tourist destination, tho it is the incense capital of India and there is a famous temple worth seeing. So I have a lot on my mind. I am sitting at the Delhi airport. Because of thick fog our flight is delayed an hour and Allynn and I took turns finding snacks to tide us over for the 3 hr flight and the 3 hr cab ride to Mysore. I made a big purchase at the airport Benetton store- a long sleeved orange t-shirt of very soft cotton.($20). Oops- our flight is further delayed-2 more hours! Time for coffee! Funny how the price of an American coffee and a latte are almost the same here. So I am definitely getting addicted to lattes. Allynn has new flight info- our delay has gone from 1 to a 2 hr delay. Finally we are in a crowded and chaotic line for boarding! They are letting old people go ahead. – how about us? Outside are busses we’ll get on to ride to the plane. Made it- we’re on the plane-3:00 (original flight time 12:30). So we should arrive in Mysore after our taxi ride- 10:30-11:00.
We took off at 3:30 and now I am trying to sleep on the plane and formulate my plan for Mysore. We are getting in so late that I am giving myself the day off tomorrow. That means I will leisurely get up, do my yoga, have the free hotel breakfast and then figure out the lay of the land- where our hotel is in relation to the Ashanga Institute and also to The Yoga Mandala, the alternative yoga school (that comes highly recommended) at half the price.
Our original plan was to go to the Ashtanga Institute for the month of Feb. They let us know they received my application shortly after Allynn mailed it in . Our whole trip was designed around this school, which I have spent the past 10 years dreaming about- So imagine our surprise when, 2 weeks into our trip, we get an e-mail saying I had not been accepted in Feb. I could try for March. Ugh! We have our return booked for March 24. Our friend Sharon has arranged shows with Allynn in her school in Delhi Feb 6.
So Feb is out, and the schedule at the school is that you sign up only for 1-2 months at a time. And you begin only on the first day of the month.
So my approach is thus- when we show up, I say my application was received for Feb but our plans changed- I need to come in Jan. And I have my $500 in my hot little hand and see what transpires! Wish me luck!
Time to check out our itinerary to Rajhastan! Did that- it looks like the icing on the cake- a really exciting adventure and we will be in good hands.
Starting our descent. We Landed – 6:00pm. Driving now in a great taxi- thanks to Mr Gupta. Volvo- super clean and the driver is a little too aggressive- fast- for my taste. (he waited 3 hrs for us – we were late) and now we are driving in the dark and there is a lot of traffic. Should have stayed in Bangalore over night. Hope to make it on a nerve wracking 3 hr journey-never a dull moment. I feel like I am on a ride at Disney- twists and turns – lots of motorcycles and speed bumps. Silly me- I thought it was going to be boring highway driving. Good thing I stopped at the airport snack shop for water, chips and cookies to go with the sandwiches Allynn got in Delhi. Allynn suggested that the seats must go back and we could try to sleep- I don’t think so- can you imagine sleeping on an adventure ride in Disney? Well- thanks for being here with me. It calms me down to be writing this to You! The small town scene is getting more interesting!
Later we made it a third of the way and now we are on an expressway to Mysore!! Plus- I had the courage to ask the driver to Slow Down. (a bit) I am sure Allynn was cringing when I said that- he is a bigger whimp than I am and Never wants to upset the apple cart. On a smaller road now – the scene reminds me of Mexico- open shops, folks hangin out on street corners. We are passing lots of trucks, school buses, cement trucks, passing gas stations, I saw a church. Back on a highway. Bosch factory… Toyota factory. Almost there! I have been making lots of conversation with the driver – about being a Hindu. About the gods and goddesses- can you imagine growing up with all that wild stuff? Blue people and people with 8 arms and wild hair and cows that fly? Amazing stuff and they all have a thousand names!

So we arrived 10 minutes ago to the Green Hotel in Mysore! The hotel is gorgeous- bit of a splurge for us -$70 but hey- it’s Xmas. Used to be a palace. Behind the ornate white building where we registered is a large grassy courtyard with different elevations and white dining furniture sprinkled around. Casual and elegant-can’t Wait to eat dinner there tomorrow – odd that lots of folks are eating this late- 10:45pm! Catch up with you tomorrow!
Namaste Annie
PS forgot to tell you it is Warm here! 80 degrees! Feels wonderful .

Determined to finally venture into Delhi with fresh resolve, we started our Sunday off at 10:00 am. Our driver (thanks to our new travelagent Mr Gupta and his wife Geeta) greeted us with his jaunty red Land Rover and took us to our first stop – the Gandhi Museum.
A very solemn garden and large estate, it has large information placards one could spend all day reading.


It was a chilly day and better to keep moving. It is the place of his death and because Gandhi was an extremely humble man there is no monument or even a sculpture of him there. However, there were many of his philosophical ideas made into signs around the grounds.
Our next stop was a miracle. We found and visited my home away from home- Starbucks!

It was great to see the Christmas decor- red cups and all the familiar stuff. I got a mocha latte with whip and was in Heaven!!

I really felt like-for a little while that I was Home! Well I should admit it- I am home sick. Next we went to the National Gallery of Modern (Indian) Art. That is where we saw 2 interesting metal sculptures that – when you get close, you see they are made out of pots and pans!

Next site- a world heritage site- Humayun’s Tomb – an ancient emperors tomb.

This is a Persian – designed temple which inspired the design of the Taj Mahal . This was a huge complex of various structures and stone walls and a thousand tourists all taking pictures.
By now we had had enough fun for one day but we had 2 more stops to make. The Sri Aurobindo Ashram was well worth a visit and we may stay there on our next stop to Delhi in Feb.
It included a large minimalist gray building surrounded by a spacious landscape and gardens. Next to it is a large public school, run by the Ashram. The Ashram provides yoga classes and meals and it is an inexpensive place to stay. We plan to visit their sister ashram in South India when we make it to Pondicherry.
Our last stop was nearby, at the home of our new friends, the travel agent couple- Shailendra and wife Geeta Gupta.

Made festive with Allynn’s balloons, we had a merry time with a chai tea party, cookies and a sweet Indian pastry filled with honey. Geeta printed out a copy of our itinerary for our Rajhastan trip which we will enjoy reading on our flight to Mysore tomorrow! After our flight to Bangalore we will have a 3 hr cab ride to Mysore, to the Green Hotel. And then our adventure in South India begins and I will see what the Ashtanga Institute has to say when we arrive at their door! Maybe the next day. Well- I will tell You all about it! Later- and Love. Annie

Our new hotel has lifted our spirits and this morning I did my full yoga routine and added 100 push-ups and 60 squats.

It occurred to me that the places we have been staying – except for the ashram in Nepal- have not been inspiring places to be . So much for cheap hotels. How can you feel like working out in a dive? We have been trying to stay in hotels of the $30 a nite price range , with a few exceptions, so that means small rooms and dusty floors and usually street noise. So now our room is much nicer and the breakfast buffet was amazing this morning, and I am re-inspired to pump up my fitness regime. Plus- at this hotel I can have hot cappuccino delivered to my room!
We had a date with our friend Sharon Lowen, who teaches Indian dance at the American school here. She has built quite a life for herself here. She is well known in the upper echelons of Delhi society and today she took us to a wonderful hotel- the Lalita- with an elegant buffet of international food.

I focused on the Brie and sushi and the sumptuous Indian food which I adore. We met her delightful friend George from the US and were Most happy to see again her 97 year old mother.

It was so pleasant to be under Sharon’s warm and friendly wing!
Tonight we have a meeting with Mr Gupta, our travel agent about setting up a tour for us in Rajhastan. I am hoping it is do- able as far as pricing goes. Tomorrow we may do a tour with his driver around Delhi and I am hoping one of the stops can be Starbucks! Yes- I saw it here- from a distance . Will let you know later.

Trying to recover from our weird yesterday where I was trying to reach the spice market in a taxi going in circles around Delhi for 2 hours and then I was dropped at an empty store selling containers of tea. Only to be told I can only get to the spice market by rickshaw ! Sitting a top a rickshaw I asked how long on this thing? He said 20 minutes!
It is so draining to feel screwed with And ripped off! And I am afraid to go by taxi Anywhere in Delhi now- lost All interest in leaving the hotel. And I am feeling very depressed about life.
Plus our hotel we have been staying in was booked by the crooked first travel agent who introduced us to the terror taxi driver from yesterday and we had to get back to that office today to pay our hotel bill. Allynn insisted he would go by himself , as we were also meeting a taxi driver who was arranged by our new travel agent, Mr. Gupta, to take us to a better hotel at the same price. So I was sitting in the lobby of our hotel and Allynn left with a taxi. And we have not been separated for the past 6 weeks for more than 5 minutes! Also- Allynn does not have a cell phone with him ( to save $) I have mine and now he is out of my sight and is now Unreachable! His taxi driver said they were just going around the corner! So I read one of my books and tried to relax. Soon the new driver appears and I say- We will be ready to go in a few minutes, as soon as my husband returns. 20 minutes later I called the first travel agent who Allynn was going by taxi to see. Glad the man answered the phone and he said ‘ he just left here. I was relieved to hear that but by the time another 25 minutes went by I was in a state of panic, imagining that Allynn had been kid nabbed, hidden away, robbed, left for dead down a dark alley. I was beside myself with despair as I was not prepared for a tragedy- who is- and suddenly he returned and we got in the other taxi and after 40 minutes we arrived to a much nicer hotel than we were in for the past 2 days. And I am again shaken and afraid to go out of the hotel. We spent the afternoon doing research on South India in the hotel room. I expect to be in Mysore for about a week. I don’t think I will even want to spend a month at the Ashtanga place – even if they do let me in because I have only 6 weeks to be in South India. Allynn has shows in feb. In Delhi which is screwing up everything. And I cannot figure out how I could manage- if he were to go by himself to Delhi- I would absolutely freak out – after today’s episode- I know I could not handle it- and this is occurring to me now as I write this. Tomorrow we will see Sharon, the Indian dancer who has our suitcases and is the one hiring Allynn to perform. So I will voice these concerns to her and I will get to see some of my wardrobe I have been missing since the beginning of our trip. I hope I don’t sound too much like a sour puss to her- will be hard to disguise my repulsion for her city of Delhi . She will be sending her driver to pick us up so at least I will feel safe, not rattled. After Allynn finally returned and we were driving in the cab, low and behold, something remarkable occurred- we passed an elephant on the opposite side of the street- walking slowly, taking up half the street, carrying a passenger on top. My heart sang for joy ! I was hoping to see an elephant here and I did! Yippee! Tonight we had another great Indian meal in our lovely hotel room. Food heals everything- my new motto! I am including a wall painting I shot on the streets of Varanasi of an elephant.

Namaste, Annie